Freispitze, Mountain summit in Lechtal Alps, Austria.
Freispitze is a mountain summit in the Lechtal Alps rising to 2,884 meters above sea level. It features a two-kilometer ridge with steep rock walls extending up to 600 meters in height along its spine.
The first documented ascent was on 19 August 1878 by Anselm Klotz, the first Lechtal mountain guide authorised by the Alpine Club in 1885, and the Salzburg jurist and mountain panorama draughtsman Anton Sattler. Klotz had already reached the summit in 1873 with his companion Josef Frey. The south face was first climbed only in 1969 at UIAA grade VI.
The peak appears as Freyspitz on Peter Anich's Tyrolean map of 1774. Anselm Klotz, the first Lechtal mountain guide authorised by the Alpine Club in 1885, reached the summit on 19 August 1878 with the Salzburg jurist and panorama draughtsman Anton Sattler; Klotz had already stood on top in 1873 with Josef Frey.
The normal route starts at the Memminger Hütte (2,242 m), descends into the Parseiertal, then climbs past the Schafgufel at 2,000 m and through the Parseiergrieß to the Südliche Freispitzscharte. It takes at least five hours and includes climbing of UIAA grade II+ to III-. Bivouacking below the south wall is permitted in Tyrol only as an emergency bivouac.
The 500-metre south face, hard Oberrät limestone, was not climbed until 1969, at UIAA grade VI. Its remote setting means climbers still bivouac below the wall in the Parseiergrieß, though Tirol permits emergency bivouacs only.
The community of curious travelers
AroundUs brings together thousands of curated places, local tips, and hidden gems, enriched daily by 94,056 contributors worldwide.