Aubeterre-sur-Dronne, commune in Charente, France
Aubeterre-sur-Dronne is a small village in southern Charente built on a hillside overlooking the Dronne River, characterized by white stone houses with red roofs and narrow cobbled streets. The layout includes a remarkable underground church carved into limestone, alongside a castle, former convents, and the Saint-Jacques Church dating from the 12th century.
The underground church of Saint-Jean was established in the 8th century and expanded during the 12th century Romanesque period, becoming France's tallest underground church. Over centuries, the village developed into a fortified settlement with a castle and hospital, attracting pilgrims traveling toward Santiago de Compostela.
This village sits on the Way of St. James, a pilgrimage path that has shaped its identity for centuries and continues to welcome travelers seeking spiritual connection. Local artisans work in ceramics, textiles, and pottery throughout the narrow streets, keeping handcraft traditions alive in small shops visible to visitors exploring the village.
The underground church is open year-round except December 25 and January 1, requiring sturdy footwear and a jacket for the cool, dark chambers inside. Guided tours are available by request, and the village is best explored on foot with a leisure center on the Dronne riverbank offering swimming, kayaking, and picnicking.
The Saint-Jean Church is France's tallest underground church, featuring a soaring vault and ancient stone coffins in a burial chamber that make it architecturally singular. The village regularly attracts British couples who choose to marry inside this underground church and purchase elegant wedding hats from a local shop specializing in fascinators.
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