San Giovanni Theristis, Greek Orthodox monastery in Bivongi, Italy.
San Giovanni Theristis is an Orthodox monastery in Bivongi whose katholikon, built in the second half of the 11th century, mixes Byzantine and Norman elements. Four corner pilasters closed by arches, two of them pointed, carry a dome that turns octagonal above four small niches. The exterior walls alternate dressed stone and terracotta courses, and the dome's tambour is ringed by 16 small half-round brick columns.
A Byzantine monastery was founded in the 11th century at the site of St. John Theristus's holy font in the Stilaro Valley. Under Norman rule it grew into one of southern Italy's most important Basilian houses, with a rich library, until decline set in; in 1662 brigands drove the monks to Stilo, taking the saint's relics. Abandoned and later used for farming, it was restored from 1990 and given to Orthodox monks.
The interior holds traces of Byzantine frescoes painted from the time of the basilica's construction; the most notable portrays St. John Theristus. A twelve-sided gold chandelier hangs in the central nave, each side bearing one of the apostles. The monastery is now served by a Romanian Orthodox monastic community.
The monastery stands in the Stilaro valley outside Bivongi, reached by a minor road; the last stretch is not served by convenient public transport, so plan your own transport. The katholikon was rebuilt by 2002 and is an active Romanian Orthodox monastic church, so dress and behave accordingly. Check opening times before setting out, as the resident community does not keep a fixed visitor schedule.
The relics of Saint John Theristis were once moved to Stilo but were returned in 2001 by the Patriarch of Constantinople. This return restored the site as an important place of pilgrimage for Orthodox believers.
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