Falkenstein, Mountain summit in Bad Schandau, Germany

Falkenstein is a sandstone summit with castle ruins near Bad Schandau, part of the Schrammsteine group in Saxon Switzerland. The rock rises sharply from the forested hillside, and at the top the remains of a medieval fortification sit on a narrow, exposed plateau.

From the mid-14th century the Falkenstein served as a castle lookout of the Barony of Hohnstein, held by the Berka von Dubá family from 1353. In 1409 it passed to Henry von der Duba's Barony of Wildenstein. It was probably destroyed during Elector Frederick II's campaign against the Berkas from 1439, and by 1456 it was listed as derelict. Carved steps and beam slots remain visible.

Falkenstein has been a gathering point for climbers since the early days of rock climbing in Saxony, and many of its routes are listed in old climbing guidebooks. Walking around the base of the rock, you can see chalk marks and worn handholds that tell the story of generations of climbers.

The summit is reserved for experienced climbers; more than 100 routes lead up, the most popular being the Schusterweg (grade III), first climbed by Oskar Schuster in 1893. The Turnerweg, used in the first documented ascent in 1864, remains a classic. Approach from Bad Schandau via the Schrammsteine; the rock stands about 90 metres high.

The summit falcon weather vane, mounted in 1894, was removed in 1929 after being called a blight; it was found by chance in a rock crevice a year later and has been kept in the Bad Schandau local history museum since 1951. The Turnerweg, climbed in 1864 by four Schandau gymnasts, is still the name used for that route.