Mont Vélan, Alpine peak between Valais, Switzerland and Aosta Valley, Italy
Mont Vélan is an Alpine peak reaching 3,731 meters, with two major glaciers on its northern side called Glacier de Tseudet and Glacier de Valsoray. Mountain huts situated on both the Swiss and Italian sides serve as crucial bases for climbers undertaking the ascent.
The first recorded ascent was accomplished by Laurent Joseph Murith, a priest from the Great St Bernard Hospice, on August 31, 1779. This achievement marked the beginning of documented mountaineering activity on this peak.
The mountain holds meaning within both Swiss and Italian climbing traditions, as climbers follow routes and use shelters that have been maintained across generations.
Climbers can approach from either the Swiss or Italian side, with routes requiring multi-day expeditions and climbing experience. Check local weather and snow conditions before planning your climb, as seasonal changes affect accessibility and safety.
The southern wall drops steeply toward By's Basin, revealing distinctive rocky formations called Denti del Vélan or Vélan's Teeth. This jagged geological feature becomes visible as you approach from certain angles and sets this peak apart from neighboring summits.
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