Via attrezzata Monte Albano, Via ferrata in Mori, Italy
The Via attrezzata Monte Albano "Ottorino Marangoni" is a via ferrata on a south-east facing wall above the Santuario di Montalbano, in Mori. Its roughly 550 m of development climb 300 m of elevation, alternating cracks, ledges, chimneys and dihedrals, with equipped and un-equipped sections; it ends at 600 m just below Nomesino. The route is rated 5C.
The route was built in 1976 by the C.A.I.-S.A.T. section of Mori on the rock face above the Montalbano sanctuary, north of the town. In 1999 it was dedicated to Ottorino Marangoni, who chaired the Mori S.A.T. section from 1976 to 1988. The sources record no 2014 renovation.
The route is named after Ottorino Marangoni, president of the Mori section of SAT from 1976 to 1988; the dedication came in 1999, 23 years after the section built the route. At the foot of the Montalbano wall, in the woods, hundreds of marked boulder problems have been established, and many more remain to be discovered and tried.
Reach the base in about 25 minutes on foot from Mori or Mori Vecchio, via the Santuario di Montalbano and a pine wood among limestone boulders. Bring a harness, via ferrata kit, helmet and suitable shoes. Allow 2 to 4 hours for the ascent plus 40 minutes back to the sanctuary square. Avoid climbing when the wall is wet or on the hottest, sunniest days.
The route's first pitch was deliberately left difficult and unsecured; after it, a climber who does not wish to continue can return to the Santuario di Montalbano by an easy path. The descent follows a partly equipped trail with fixed ropes heading east, or a more comfortable alternative route.
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