Er Polpetta, Restaurant in Lecce, Italy

Er Polpetta is a small restaurant on a busy street in the center of Lecce, Italy, where the focus is on simple plates built around meatballs. The narrow room has a few small tables and a counter, with walls covered in casual pictures and signs that give it a homey, unpretentious look.

The restaurant was opened a few years ago with the idea of concentrating on one type of food rather than a wide menu. It follows a long tradition in Lecce of small eateries that serve a single specialty well, even though the building itself is not old.

The place reflects a local habit of eating good food without formality, whether standing at the counter or sitting for a short while. The names of the various meatball dishes on the board often refer to familiar family recipes, which gives the menu a personal touch you can see as soon as you enter.

The space is small, so it works best for solo diners or pairs rather than large groups. Expect a quick stop rather than a long meal, and keep in mind that the room fills up fast in the evening.

A detail many passersby miss is the handwritten board listing seasonal variations of the meatball dishes, which changes as local ingredients come and go. Regulars often point to one recipe not on the printed menu, so asking what is new can lead to a flavor you would not otherwise find.