Watzespitze, Alpine summit in Ötztal Alps, Austria

Watzespitze is the highest mountain of the Kaunergrat group in the Ötztal Alps, rising in Tyrol between the Kaunertal to the east and the Pitztal to the west. Its main summit reaches 3,533 m, with a south summit at 3,503 m; torn hanging glaciers, steep ridges and walls fall away from the double peak above the southern Madatschjoch.

The sources do not record a first ascent or any climbing history for the Watzespitze. Its documented history is cartographic: the mountain appears as the highest point of the Kaunergrat at 3,532 m (German source) or 3,533 m (English source), with a south summit at 3,501 or 3,503 m. The double summit rises above the Madatschjoch, between the Kaunertal and Pitztal valleys.

The name Watzespitze is also shortened to Watze or Waze in local usage. The mountain rises between the Kaunertal to the east and the Pitztal to the west, and the Kaunergrathütte below it serves as the usual base for climbers heading for the summit.

Most ascents start from the Kaunergrathütte. The easiest route now runs glacier-free over the east ridge, but it involves climbing up to grade III+ or IV (ZS+). The former glacier path is no longer recommended in summer because of snow melt. All routes are serious alpine undertakings.

The south summit, at 3,503 m, stands only about 30 m below the main summit of 3,532 m, so the double peak is easy to mistake for a single top from below. The easiest route now avoids the glacier entirely, climbing the east ridge at climbing grades III+ to IV.