Großes Wiesbachhorn, Alpine summit in Hohe Tauern, Austria
The Großes Wiesbachhorn is a free-standing, firn-capped summit of 3,564 m in the Glockner Group, Salzburg, forming the main peak of the Fusch/Kaprun chain. It is almost entirely ringed by glaciers: the Wielingerkees to the north, the Sandbodenkees to the northeast, the Teufelsmühlkees to the south and the Kaindlkees to the west. The Kleines Wiesbachhorn lies north beyond the 3,211 m Sandbodenscharte.
The Fusch farmers' route to the summit, used at the end of the 18th century, is rarely climbed today. On 15 July 1924 Friedrich Rigele and Willo Welzenbach made the first ascent of the 500-metre Northwest Face, using ice hooks for the first time; these were later developed into ice screws. The face was long counted among the classic ice walls of the Eastern Alps, but its ice has now melted away completely.
The summit stands on private land: since 1918 it has belonged to the Fischhorn estate in Bruck an der Großglocknerstraße, legal successor of the heirs of Peruvian industrialist Heinrich E. Gildemeister, who bought the property from Prince Johann II of Liechtenstein. The estate still owns the mountain and its neighbouring peaks today.
The usual start is the Heinrich-Schwaiger-Haus; from there the normal route leads through a rope-secured chimney and over the Unterer and Oberer Fochezkopf and the now ice-free Kaindlgrat to the summit in about 3 hours. A 35° firn edge on the way has melted away, so experienced hikers can reach the top in good conditions without crampons. The rock sections are UIAA grade I. The original Fusch farmers' route from Ferleiten, via the later Schwarzenberghütte site and past the Bratschenköpfe, is rarely used today.
The eastern face drops nearly 2,300 meters directly to the Fuscher Ache river valley, creating one of the most extreme elevation changes from summit to riverbed found anywhere in the Eastern Alps. This steep slope makes the mountain instantly recognizable from a distance and shapes how the surrounding landscape flows downward.
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