Balmhorn, Alpine summit in Bernese Alps, Switzerland

Balmhorn is a high Alpine summit in the Bernese Alps, sitting on the border between the cantons of Bern and Valais. Its flanks are steep and rocky, and the summit can be reached by several routes, of which the southwest ridge known as Zackengrat is among the most technical.

The first ascent was made on 21 July 1864 by Frank Walker, Horace Walker and Lucy Walker, guided by Jakob Anderegg and Melchior Anderegg. The Balmhorn rises 3,697 m on the ridge where the cantonal border between Bern and Valais runs, and its summit is the highest point of the municipality of Kandersteg. The normal route climbs from the Spittelmatte on the Gemmi path over the Schwarzgletscher and the Zackengrat.

The name element "balm" derives from the Celtic word for an overhanging rock, a reference to the mountain's form. The Gasthaus Schwarenbach below served as a base for early climbers and hosted guests such as Mark Twain; the cat Tomba, which lived there, regularly accompanied touring parties on high routes including the Balmhorn.

The normal route starts at Spittelmatte on the Gemmiweg and climbs over the Schwarzgletscher and the Zackengrat to the summit. Berghotel Schwarenbach serves as a base hut; further approaches lead from the Balmhornhütte above the Gasterental over the Wildelsigegrat or the north face, and from the Gitzifurggu over the Gitzigrat. Ski mountaineers often use the normal route in winter.

Although taller summits surround it, the Balmhorn has a prominence of over 1,000 meters above its parent peak, the Finsteraarhorn, which confirms it as a fully independent mountain. This standing draws climbers who specifically look for less visited but technically demanding goals.