Doldenhorn, Alpine summit in Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Doldenhorn is a 3,638-metre mountain in the Bernese Alps above Kandersteg. Its north face, a glacier wall rising about 600 metres above Lake Oeschinen, is the mountain's showpiece, while the south side above the Gasterental is rocky. The summit is reached via a glacier ramp from the saddle between the Kleindoldenhorn and the main peak.
The Doldenhorn was first climbed on 30 June 1862 by Abraham Roth and Edmund von Fellenberg with guides Johann Bischoff, Kaspar Blatter, Christian Lauener and Gilgian Reichen. The Gallet ridge was first climbed on 19 July 1899 by J. Gallet, J. Kalbermatten and A. Müller, and the east ridge from the Fründenjoch by E. and O. Bürki on 5 August 1923. The north face, about 600 m high with an average slope of 54°, was first climbed by M. Bachmann and S. Plietz on 8 July 1934.
In the 19th century, during Romanticism and Realism, Doldenhorn, Blüemlisalp and Blausee were frequent subjects of landscape painting. Works by Alexandre Calame, Ferdinand Hodler, Hans Thoma and Anton Winterlin are known, along with those of Auguste-Henri Berthoud, Max Buri, Johann Wilhelm Lindlar, Friedrich Preller the Elder, Julius Preller and Carl Theodor Reiffenstein.
The climb begins from Kandersteg and leads first to Doldenhorn Hut at 1,915 meters elevation. From there the route crosses glacial terrain to the summit, requiring proper gear and previous mountaineering experience.
The Galletgrat, a fine-ridged snow and ice arête on the east side, was first climbed on 19 July 1899 by J. Gallet, J. Kalbermatten and A. Müller. Much of its rock section is equipped with fixed ropes and chains, and the rock difficulties reach UIAA grade III.
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