Galenstock, Mountain summit in the Uri Alps, Switzerland
The Galenstock is a 3,586-metre summit in the southern Urner Alps, on the border between the cantons of Uri and Valais. It stands north of the Furka Pass road, surrounded by the Rhone Glacier to the west, the Sidelen Glacier to the south-east and the Tiefen Glacier to the north-east. Its summit ridge connects southward over the Galensattel (3,113 m) and the Galengrat to the Sidelenhorn.
The first recorded ascent took place in 1845 when Eduard Desor led a team including Daniel Dollfuss and several mountain guides to the summit. This marked the beginning of the mountain's climbing history.
The Galenstock rises above the Rhone Glacier, the ice field that feeds the Rhone. The mountain's south side drops toward the glacier, and the easiest route to the summit starts at the Hotel Belvédère beside the Furka Pass road, crossing the glacier and its western flank to the Galensattel.
The easiest route starts at Hotel Belvédère, crosses the Rhone Glacier and the west flank to the Galensattel, then continues over firn, later ice, to the summit. From the east, the normal route runs via the Albert-Heim-Hütte (2,543 m) over the Tiefengletscher to the north ridge and up in grade II climbing. Both routes are also skiable in winter.
The Galenstock rises west of the Rhone Glacier, whose meltwater feeds the Rhone. The easiest route starts at Hotel Belvédère and crosses the glacier and the west flank to the Galensattel (3,113 m) before the summit. Both main routes are also skied in winter.
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