Action Directe, sport climbing route in Germany
Action Directe is a sport climbing route on limestone in Frankenjura, stretching about 15 meters upward with five visible bolts for protection. The route demands quick, powerful jumping movements between small pockets, particularly across the steep overhang, and concludes at a belay anchor.
Wolfgang Güllich made the first ascent in 1991, establishing a worldwide standard for extreme sport climbing difficulty. Few climbers repeated it initially, but over time it became a training goal for advancing athletes and shaped modern climbing training methods.
Action Directe takes its name from a French activist group, reflecting the aggressive style of the climb itself. The crag draws climbers who gather to face this intense challenge and share experiences within a welcoming community of dedicated athletes.
This route requires experience and strength; beginners will find it too demanding, but experienced climbers can work toward it as a training goal. Check the weather before visiting, as wet limestone becomes slippery and appropriate gear is needed to protect against sharp edges.
Güllich developed the campus board training method specifically to prepare for this route, a technique that has since become standard in climbing gyms worldwide. The route has also been climbed by women, with Mélissa Le Nevé achieving the first female ascent in 2020.
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