Ortler, Mountain summit in South Tyrol, Italy.
Ortler is a mountain in South Tyrol that rises to 3,905 m (12,812 ft) and spreads over three main ridges: North, South, and East. The steep slopes are covered with snow and ice, while the upper sections show bare rock and glacial surfaces.
Josef Pichler reached the summit for the first time in September 1804 after Archduke John of Austria commissioned the climb. He chose the northwest flank from Trafoi, a route long considered the only feasible way to the top.
The name comes from the Romansh word for "horn" or "peak," reflecting the long connection between this summit and the mountain communities of the region. Today, climbers follow the same paths once used by hunters and local guides centuries ago, experiencing the bareness of the high-altitude terrain.
The usual climb begins at Payer Hut at 3,029 m (9,938 ft) and follows the North Ridge through snow and ice fields to the summit. The route requires experience with crampons and ice axes, especially during changing weather conditions in high mountains.
The North Face holds one of the largest ice walls in the Eastern Alps, with routes rarely repeated since their first ascent. Many of these lines remain technically demanding and attract only a few climbers seeking extraordinary challenges.
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