Old Cathedral of Saint Mary of Coimbra
The Old Cathedral of Saint Mary of Coimbra is a 12th-century church with thick stone walls and small windows that give it a fortress-like appearance. Inside, it retains its original Romanesque features including high wooden-beam ceilings, a striking golden Gothic altarpiece created by Flemish sculptors in the early 1500s, and a Renaissance side portal decorated with intricate carvings that blend different artistic periods.
Construction began in 1164 under Bishop Dom Miguel Salomaeo and the cathedral was dedicated in 1184, after which King D. Sancho I was crowned there in 1185. The building introduced a new architectural style for Portuguese cathedrals and remains the most intact Romanesque cathedral from Portugal's Reconquista period.
The cathedral is dedicated to Saint Mary and has served as the spiritual center of Coimbra since its founding. Every May, male graduates gather on its front steps to sing traditional Portuguese fado music as a farewell to their university years, making it a living stage for local academic traditions.
The cathedral is open daily from late morning until early evening and is easily reached on foot by climbing steps from the Arco de Almedina gateway in the old town. Visitors should note that entry is not permitted during services, which are held in the late afternoon on weekdays, early evening on Saturdays, and mid-morning on Sundays.
The interior stone capitals are decorated with unusual plant and animal motifs but contain no human figures or biblical scenes, suggesting they were created by Moçarab artists. These craftsmen settled in Coimbra and developed a distinctive decorative style that sets this cathedral apart from other Portuguese religious buildings.
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