Tocllaraju, Mountain summit in Ancash Department, Peru.

Tocllaraju is a pyramid-shaped summit in the Cordillera Blanca, about 6,034 m high, on the border of Carhuaz and Huaraz provinces within Huascarán National Park. Its upper faces are snow and ice cut by narrow dark rock bands, above a crevasse-ridged glacier; reddish-brown rock breaks through near the lower right. The east side ends in glacier tongues, the west in hanging glaciers.

Walther Brecht and Hans Schweizer made the first ascent on 31 July 1939, climbing from the Quebradas Honda and Cancahua to the Northwest Ridge during the German Alpine Club's Andean tour. The second ascent came only 20 years later, by Americans Leigh Ortenburg and Kermith Ross. The current normal route from Quebrada Ishinca, also finishing on the Northwest Ridge, was first climbed in 1963 by a Swiss rope team.

The name Tuqllarahu comes from Ancash Quechua: tuqlla means trap and raju or rasu means snow, so it can be read as snow-covered trap mountain. The Spanish form adds Nevado, the term used across the Andes for glaciated peaks, as on the Alpenverein map. The summit is linked by a ridge to the 240 m higher Palcaraju, which forms the provincial border between Carhuaz and Huaraz.

The approach starts from Pashpa village and passes through Ishinca Valley to successive camps at elevations ranging from 4,350 to 4,950 meters (14,270 to 16,240 feet). Working with local guides familiar with weather patterns and conditions is essential for a safe experience.

The Northwest Ridge route exposes climbers to extreme glacial conditions, including hidden crevasses and rapidly changing snow. Many mountaineers underestimate the technical complexity of this line compared to other nearby peaks.