Jack Mountain, Mountain summit in North Cascades, USA

Jack Mountain is the highest point of the Hozameen Range in the North Cascades, within North Cascades National Park. It rises 7,450 feet above the south end of Ross Lake in only 3 horizontal miles. The Nohokomeen Glacier nearly fills the cirque on its upper north slopes.

Surveyor Henry Custer first described Jack Mountain in 1859, and it was named for prospector Jack Rowley, active on Canyon Creek. The first recorded ascent came in 1904, by topographer E.C. Barnard. By the 1980s seven climbing routes had been established on most ridges, glaciers and faces.

Jack Mountain is the 17th-highest peak in Washington, one of the ten non-volcanic summits in the state above 9,000 feet. Its name honors prospector Jack Rowley, active on Canyon Creek, and surveyor Henry Custer described the peak in 1859. Climbers know it as a long, physically demanding ascent.

All routes are long and gain a great deal of vertical elevation, so most parties take three to four days to climb the mountain. Seven routes were established by the 1980s on most ridges, glaciers and faces; most are class 4, but some involve true technical climbing. Approach from the North Cascades Highway or across Ross Lake.

Jack Mountain is one of ten non-volcanic peaks in Washington above 9,000 feet, and it rises 7,450 feet above the south end of Ross Lake in only three horizontal miles. The Nohokomeen Glacier nearly fills the cirque on the upper north slopes. The first recorded ascent was by topographer E.C. Barnard in 1904.