Lisenser Fernerkogel, Mountain summit in Tyrol, Austria
Lisenser Fernerkogel is a mountain summit in the Stubai Alps standing at 3,298 meters (10,820 feet). A glacier covers its northern slope while steep rock faces define the other sides of the peak.
The mountain is first recorded in 1142 as "cacumen montis qui dicitur Vernær" in a boundary description of Stift Wilten, a document reworked in the late 13th century but based on authentic earlier records. The normal route via the Lüsener Ferner was first climbed in 1876 by H. Buchner and F. Jenewein from the Franz-Senn-Hütte. In 1836 Karl Thurwieser and Philipp Schöpf made the first ascent by the brittle west face, and in 1877 Ludwig Purtscheller and R. Rofner climbed the north ridge.
The name "Ferner" appears as early as 1142 in a boundary charter of Stift Wilten as "cacumen montis qui dicitur Vernær", meaning the peak of the mountain called Ferner. Today the Franz-Senn-Hütte above the Lüsenstal serves as the standard base for the climb, and the Kleine Horntal approach from Alpengasthaus Lüsens is a popular ski tour.
Climbers should prepare for demanding conditions and bring complete mountaineering equipment including ice axes and crampons for glacier work. Summer offers the most stable and safest conditions for ascending and traversing the glacier.
The normal route reaches the summit via a 3,198 m saddle south of the top, then a rocky south ridge rated UIAA grade I. The approach crosses the Lüsener Ferner and the Rotgratferner, separated by the Plattige Wand rock step. The first ascent of this route was made in 1876 by H. Buchner and F. Jenewein from the Franz-Senn-Hütte.
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