Rotspitze, Mountain summit in Tyrol, Austria
Rotspitze is a 2067-meter mountain summit in Tyrol with steep switchback paths crossing scree fields that open to wide views across the Eastern Alps. The trail traverses exposed rocky sections and loose terrain that demand secure footing and good balance.
No first-ascent records exist for the Rotspitze, since the fertile Rofan ground was settled early and the peaks were easy to climb. Climbing on the Rotspitzwände began in 1913, when Herbert Eichhorn soloed the south-face chimney at UIAA IV+. In 1917 the brothers J. and K. Hagspül climbed the south face by what is now the Alter Weg (IV+), and Matthias Rebitsch opened the Rebitschweg on the southeast edge in 1931.
Climbing on the Rotspitze walls began in 1913, when Herbert Eichhorn soloed the south-face chimney at today's UIAA grade IV+. In 1917 the brothers J. and K. Hagspül climbed the south face by what is now called the Alter Weg (UIAA IV+), and Matthias Rebitsch opened the Rebitschweg over the southeast edge in 1931. The two most recent routes, Lichterkette (UIAA VIII) on the south face and Schattendasein (UIAA VIII+) on the north face, were bolted in 2002.
Solid footwear with good grip is essential since scree paths become slippery when wet and safety depends on traction. Weather changes quickly in the mountains, so bring extra layers and a basic emergency kit.
The south face was first climbed in 1917 by the brothers J. and K. Hagspül via the route now called Alter Weg (UIAA IV+). Matthias Rebitsch opened the Rebitschweg over the southeast edge in 1931, and the last new routes, Lichterkette (UIAA VIII) and Schattendasein (UIAA VIII+), date from 2002.
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