Weisshorn, Mountain peak in Pennine Alps, Switzerland

The Weisshorn is a 4,505-metre peak in the Pennine Alps of Valais, Switzerland, between the Anniviers and Zermatt valleys. Three sharp ridges descend from the summit, forming an even pyramid. The west side is a rocky precipice above the Weisshorn and Moming glaciers, while the north and east spurs enclose the Bis Glacier and the east and south spurs the Schali Glacier.

John Tyndall, a physicist, made the first ascent on 19 August 1861 with guides J. J. Bennen and Ulrich Wenger, starting from Randa and following the east ridge that remains the normal route. The south-west Schali ridge was first climbed on 2 September 1895 by guides Josef Marie Biner and Ambros Imboden with Edward Broome, and the north ridge on 21 September 1898 by H. Biehly and H. Burgener.

The mountain is deeply woven into the story of mountaineering in Switzerland and draws climbers seeking to test themselves on technical routes. Local mountain guides have long been central to the experience of attempting this peak.

The normal route follows the east ridge from the Weisshorn Hut at 2,932 m above Randa, rated ZS (AD) with grade III rock climbing and about seven hours to the summit. The Schaligrat from the Schalijoch bivouac at 3,780 m is harder, rated S (D) with grade IV climbing. The north-northwest ridge starts from the Cabane de Tracuit at 3,256 m above Zinal and takes around eight hours.

Two major rockslides occurred from a cliff face near the Bis Glacier in 1991, revealing the dynamic geological forces at work in this region. These events remind climbers that alpine environments are constantly changing.