Rottalhorn, Mountain summit in Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Rottalhorn is a mountain summit in the Bernese Alps that sits between the Rottal valley and the Jungfraufirn section of the Aletsch Glacier. The west face rises approximately 1000 meters with rock formations that shift from gneiss to limestone as climbers gain elevation.
The west face remained unclimbed until October 2023, when three mountaineers completed the first ascent. This breakthrough demonstrated that untouched climbing routes still exist in established Alpine regions.
The mountain stands as a testament to traditional alpinism, demonstrating that unexplored climbing opportunities still exist in the established Alpine regions.
The approach begins from Stechelberg and leads to Rottalhatte, followed by a roughly 45-minute walk to the climbing starting point. Mountaineers should be experienced with Alpine climbing and carry proper gear for technical rock work.
As climbers ascend, the rock shifts from gneiss to limestone, creating distinct climbing conditions throughout the route. This geological transition makes the west face engaging and technically varied for mountaineers.
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