Piz da la Margna, Alpine summit in Grisons, Switzerland
Piz da la Margna is a 3,158-metre mountain in the Bernina Range, overlooking Lake Sils in Graubünden. It lies entirely in the municipality of Bregaglia, bounded by Val Forno to the west, Val Fedoz to the east and the Valaca to the north. Its north flank retains a small glacier, the Vadrec da Murtairac, and from the north the peak resembles a castle.
The first recorded tourist ascent was made by J. Caviezel, Krättli, Robbi and Zaun in June 1857. The south-east ridge from the Fuorcla da la Margna was first climbed on 14 August 1918 by Hans Frick with Christian Zippert and Hans Casper. A north-west ridge variant was first climbed on 11 August 1859 by Theobald, Prevosti and Stampa with the hunter E. Giovanoli.
The name comes from the surname Margna, once common in the Bregaglia valley, not from a Romansh word for the mountain itself. The peak is also called the "guardian of the Upper Engadin", and from the north it looks like a castle. Maloja and Sils Maria are the usual starting points.
The marked east-flank route starts at Sils Maria (1809 m), not Maloja, passing Vaüglia and Ca d'Starnam (2024 m) before the east basin and northeast ridge; it is graded T6 and takes about 4½ hours. From Maloja (1815 m) the usual ascent runs via Plan di Cavai and the Vadrec da Murtairac glacier to the northeast ridge, also T6, about 4 hours. Winter ski tours from either village are rated ZS+ and demand safe conditions and steep-slope experience.
The southeast ridge from Fuorcla da la Margna requires technical climbing skills with difficulty grade IV and exposed sections. Experienced climbers choose this route when seeking additional challenge.
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