Shinjuku Golden Gai, Entertainment district in Kabukicho, Tokyo, Japan
Shinjuku Golden Gai is a small area in Kabukicho, Tokyo, made up of narrow alleys lined with around 200 tiny bars. Most of these bars hold only a handful of people at a time, and their fronts are covered in signs, neon lights, and stickers.
After the Second World War, the area grew out of black markets and simple drinking spots, gradually becoming a meeting place for writers, artists, and musicians. That creative community shaped the character of the district and kept it alive across decades.
Many bars in Golden Gai are built around a theme, from jazz and books to horror movies and retro music. Walking through the alleys, you quickly notice that each bar draws a different kind of regular crowd.
The alleys are very narrow, so it is a good idea to leave large bags or backpacks in a locker near Shinjuku Station before entering the district. Most bars do not accept credit cards, so carry cash, and always ask before taking photos inside.
One of the area's best-known bars, La Jetée, was inspired by a French short film from 1962 and has been run for decades by a cinema lover. Although the district faced demolition threats several times in the 1980s and 1990s, the bar owners organized and fought to save it.
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