Mount Earnslaw

Mount Earnslaw is a summit with twin peaks rising to 2,819 meters, marked by a glaciated south face between the Rees and Dart river valleys. The massif rises steeply above the surrounding terrain and dominates the landscape.

The summit was first successfully climbed in 1890 by Harry Birley, who left a bent coin in a bottle as proof of his ascent. This early climb marked the beginning of exploration in the New Zealand Alps.

The mountain carries two names: Earnslaw from a Scottish village and Pikirakatahi in Maori, reflecting New Zealand's dual heritage. This dual naming shows how different peoples have shaped the landscape here.

Mountaineers access the peak through the Rees Valley trailhead, with shelter available at Earnslaw Hut or Esquilant Bivvy along the route. Ice axes and crampons are required for the climb, particularly for glacier traverses.

The East Peak serves as a training ground for mountaineers, requiring traversal of the Birley Glacier with ice axes and crampons. This route is less crowded than the main approach and offers a more technical climbing experience.

GPS coordinates: -44.62323,168.40240

Latest update: December 12, 2025 07:57