Mount Foraker, Mountain peak in Denali National Park, Alaska, US
Mount Foraker is a mountain peak in the Alaska Range standing at about 5,300 meters, making it the second highest in that range and third in the entire country. The mountain attracts climbers with its distinctive profile and technically demanding routes along its various ridges and faces.
Charles Houston, T. Graham Brown and Chychele Waterston made the first ascent in 1934 via the west ridge, reaching the north peak on August 6 and the higher south peak four days later, on August 10. The second ascent followed in 1963 via the Southeast Ridge, by Jim Richardson and Jeff Duenwald.
The Koyukon of the Lake Minchumina area, who saw Foraker broadside, gave it two names: Sultana, "the woman", and Menlale, "Denali's wife". The Dena'ina of the Susitna River valley called it Be'u, "his wife". Russian traders knew both Foraker and Denali together as Bolshaya Gora, "big mountain".
The mountain presents a challenge for advanced climbers who must carefully navigate steep sections, sharp ridges, and snowfields. Visitors should expect difficult weather and high altitude conditions and come properly trained and equipped.
Colin Haley made the first solo ascent of the Infinite Spur on the south face in 2016, taking 12 hours 29 minutes from the bergschrund to the summit. He then descended the Sultana Ridge over the following 48 hours in a whiteout. The route had first been climbed in 1977 by Michael Kennedy and George Lowe, who took six days.
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