Mount Huntington, Mountain summit in Denali National Park, Alaska, US
Mount Huntington is a 12,241-foot (3,731 m) peak in the central Alaska Range characterized by steep rock and ice faces. The summit rises sharply from the Tokositna Glacier, displaying the jagged terrain typical of this remote mountain range.
French mountaineer Lionel Terray achieved the first successful ascent in May 1964 via what became known as the French Ridge. This early milestone established the mountain as a coveted objective for experienced climbers.
The mountain's sharp, triangular profile has made it recognizable in mountaineering culture and popular imagery. Visitors instantly notice its distinctive outline standing out clearly from the surrounding peaks.
Climbers typically approach via the West Fork of Ruth Glacier or Tokositna Glacier, with optimal conditions from late spring through early summer. Prior experience with glacier travel and technical climbing is important for any attempt.
The West Face Couloir presents a demanding 1,200-foot (365 m) ice corridor that requires advanced mountaineering techniques. This challenging variation attracts climbers seeking routes beyond standard approaches.
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