Mount Dickey, Mountain summit in Ruth Gorge, Alaska, USA.
Mount Dickey is a peak on the west side of the Ruth Gorge in the Central Alaska Range, 12 miles southeast of Denali and 4 miles southwest of The Moose's Tooth. Its east face drops about a vertical mile (1,600 m) of sheer granite over less than half a mile (800 m) of horizontal distance, one of the tallest rock walls in the world.
The mountain was first climbed in 1955 by David Fisher and Bradford Washburn via a west-facing route that remains in use today. This ascent began the era of technical climbing on its steep granite faces.
The east face's first route was climbed in July 1974 by David Roberts, Galen Rowell and Ed Ward, who spent four days on a 5,100-foot pillar on the southeast face. Thomas Bonapace and Andreas Orgler added the "Wine Bottle Route" on the right side of the east face in 1988, a 5,250-foot line. Roger Cowles and Brian Okonek made the first winter ascent in February 1979.
This location is best visited during warmer months since winter temperatures drop far below freezing, making expeditions dangerous or impossible. Plan any climbing trips for late spring or early summer when conditions are most favorable for technical routes.
The east face gains about 1,600 m of vertical granite over less than 800 m of horizontal distance, one of the tallest rock walls in the world. The 1988 Wine Bottle Route, climbed by Thomas Bonapace and Andreas Orgler, runs 1,600 m up its right side.
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