Hoher Weißzint, Mountain summit in Zillertal Alps, Italy and Austria
The Hoher Weißzint rises on the main crest of the Zillertal Alps, on the border between South Tyrol and Tyrol. Its northern rock summit reaches 3,370 m, while the highest point, bearing a summit cross, stands about 150 m to the south at 3,371 m. A broad snowfield covers the upper mountain, broken near the crest by two dark gray rock outcrops; below, crevasses and ridges expose gray ice, and a steep rocky slope borders the snow on the lower left. Glaciers surround it: the Schlegeiskees to the north, the Breitnockferner to the east, the Weißzintferner to the south and the Gliderferner to the west.
The first ascent was made on 8 August 1871 by Erich Graf Künigl, an imperial-royal lieutenant, with an unnamed farmer from Lappach. They climbed from Lappach over the Weißzintscharte and the upper Gliderferner; a descent to the Schlegeistal seemed impossible, so they returned the same way, and Künigl alone reached the summit by the east ridge. The peak has since stood on the border between Tyrol and South Tyrol.
The name Weißzint means "white tooth", after the bright firn that once covered the main summit. The Italian name Punta Bianca carries the same meaning, and the peak is not to be confused with the Punta Bianca of the Eastern Breonie Alps. The main summit bears a summit cross.
The normal route starts from the Edelrauthütte (Rifugio Ponte di Ghiaccio, 2,545 m) at the end of the Lappach valley and climbs the south-west ridge in 3½ hours, UIAA grade I to II. Expect problematic cornices and ice on the summit area. From the Hochfeilerhütte (2,710 m) the west ridge takes about 5 hours and reaches UIAA grade III if the Hochfeiler is crossed.
The name Weißzint means "white tooth", from the white firn that once covered the main summit; the northern rock summit is 3,370 m, while the highest point, marked by a summit cross, lies about 150 m south at 3,371 m. The first ascent was on 8 August 1871 by k.u.k. Oberleutnant Erich Graf Künigl with an unnamed farmer from Lappach.
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