Firmisanschneide, Mountain summit in the Ötztal Alps, Tyrol, Austria

The Firmisanschneide is a 3,490 m peak in the main ridge of the Ötztal Alps in Tyrol, about eight kilometres south-west of Obergurgl. Its east flank, inclined up to 55°, is glaciated, and pronounced ridges run north-east, south-east and west. The Firmisanferner lies to the north, the Diemferner to the south and the Gurgler Ferner to the east.

The Firmisanschneide was first climbed in 1870 by the priest Franz Senn, founder of the Alpine Club, and the German naturalist and chemist Ludwig Darmstaedter, guided by Anselm Klotz. Their route from Vent is not recorded. Today the Ramolhaus at 3005 m serves as the base for the normal route over the Spiegeljoch and the rocky northeast ridge.

The name pairs the Firmisan glacier and the Firmisanjoch below the summit with Schneide, a ridge crest. The 1870 first ascent by Franz Senn, founder of the German and Austrian Alpine Club, and chemist Ludwig Darmstaedter, guided by Anselm Klotz, is the climb usually cited for the peak.

The usual route starts from the Ramolhaus (3005 m), leads southwest over a firn field to the Spiegeljoch, then follows the rocky northeast ridge at UIAA grade I; allow about three hours to the summit. The east face and north flank are serious ice climbs, and the other ridges reach UIAA grade III. The first ascent route from Vent is not recorded.

The summit sits within a cluster of other notable peaks including Schalfkogel, Eiskogele, and Kreuzspitze nearby. This arrangement creates an interesting mountain complex for determined climbers who wish to explore several objectives in the region.