Nesthorn, Mountain summit in Valais, Switzerland

Nesthorn is a mountain summit in the Bernese Alps rising to about 3,800 meters, marked by steep northern rock faces and extended glacial features on its eastern and western slopes. The rock walls appear raw and exposed, while glacial surfaces shift in visibility depending on the season.

Nesthorn was first climbed in 1865 from Belalp by B. George and H. Mortimer, guided by Christian Almer and his son. They followed the west branch of the Beich Firn, climbed a steep ice slope broken by protruding rock masses, gained the ridge above the Gredetschtal and reached the summit in six hours, excluding halts.

The name Nesthorn is easily confused with the Bietschhorn, six kilometres away, which was also once called Nesthorn; the Kleine Nesthorn and Nestgletscher near the Bietschhorn share only the name with this peak. The 3,820 m summit is a hidden one: its massive north face is visible from only a few spots in the valley.

Climbing requires technical skills and experience with steep ice slopes and rock sections. Established routes from the valley provide access, with winter and spring being the preferred seasons.

The north face is a serious combined climb on Aare granite of the Aarmassif, exposed to glacier retreat; two-thirds of the wall has already melted out, yet the rock remains firm and solid, unlike many other alpine faces.