Ago di Sciora, Mountain summit in Grisons, Switzerland
Ago di Sciora is a 3,205 m peak in the Bregaglia Range of the Rhaetian Alps, south of Vicosoprano in Graubünden. Its summit is a spire about 100 m high rising isolated on the ridge of the Sciora group. Seen from Val Bondasca to the west, a pronounced edge drops 750 m from the top to the base of the wall.
The first ascent was made on 4 June 1893 by the Russian climber Anton von Rydzewski with the guides Christian Klucker of Fex and Emilio Rey of Courmayeur. They climbed from the Albigna side and up the south face of the summit spire. Their route, with passages of grade IV, is still the normal route from the Albigna side.
The peak's name, "Ago" (needle), reflects the slender rock spire that crowns the summit ridge. Its first ascent on 4 June 1893 by Anton von Rydzewski with guides Christian Klucker and Emilio Rey became a fashionable climb for a long period, though it is now rarely repeated. The west ridge, first soloed by Walter Risch in 1923 and completed by Hans Peter Kasper in 1969, is regarded as the most elegant line to the top.
The standard route takes roughly 10 to 12 hours and requires experienced climbers with solid technical skills and altitude experience. Access starts from the Albigna or Sciora mountain huts, which serve as basepoints for the climb.
The west ridge was climbed solo by Walter Risch in 1923, then completed by Hans Peter Kasper in 1969; the direct integral line covers 750 m at grade VII. The south-east face holds the Scarabelli route, opened in 1974: 300 m at VI A2. The 1893 first ascent, by Rydzewski with guides Klucker and Rey, is now seldom repeated.
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