Ago di Sciora

Ago di Sciora is a sharp granite needle rising to approximately 3,200 meters within the Sciora group of the Bergaglia Range. The peak features steep rock faces and demanding climbing passages that can be approached through various routes.

The peak was first summited in June 1893 by mountaineers Anton von Rydzewski, Christian Klucker, and Emile Rey after years of failed attempts. This breakthrough marked a turning point in climbing history by proving that extremely technical granite peaks could be conquered.

This peak draws skilled mountaineers from across Europe who see it as a place to test themselves on complex granite challenges. Over the years it has become a destination where climbers come to push their technical abilities.

The standard route takes roughly 10 to 12 hours and requires experienced climbers with solid technical skills and altitude experience. Access starts from the Albigna or Sciora mountain huts, which serve as basepoints for the climb.

The eastern face remains rarely visited by climbers because the approach crosses extensive rubble fields created by glacier retreat. This route demonstrates how climate change is reshaping the alpine landscape and creating new challenges for mountaineers.