Siula Grande, Mountain summit in the Cordillera Huayhuash, Peru
Siula Grande is a 6,344-metre summit in the Cordillera Huayhuash, on the border of the Lima and Huánuco regions. Its broad, rounded top rises above steep, fluted faces cut by deep vertical ridges and gullies, with dark grey rock outcrops breaking through the snow. A 6,000-metre col separates it from the subpeak Siula Chico, 6,260 metres high.
Arnold Awerzger and Erwin Schneider made the first ascent on 28 July 1936 via the North Ridge. In 1985 Joe Simpson and Simon Yates climbed the West Face, then descended the North Ridge; Simpson broke his leg, and the ordeal became his book Touching the Void (1988), a 2003 film and a 2018 play.
The mountain's Quechua name is Hatun Siwla. Its West Face entered mountaineering lore through Joe Simpson and Simon Yates' 1985 ascent and Simpson's subsequent account in Touching the Void, adapted into a 2003 film and a 2018 play.
Climbers should plan several days for acclimatization and work with experienced guides when attempting this peak. The best climbing season falls during the dry months when snow and ice conditions are most stable.
After 1985, climbers on the west face stopped descending the North Ridge and rappelled the face instead, because of what happened to Joe Simpson and Simon Yates. Simpson broke his leg on the descent; the account became his book Touching the Void, filmed in 2003 and staged as a play in 2018.
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