Jirishanca, Mountain summit in Cordillera Huayhuash, Peru
Jirishanca is a 6,094-metre summit in the Cordillera Huayhuash, on the boundary of the Áncash and Huánuco regions. Two steep, jagged peaks joined by a high snow saddle rise above a brown lower ridge; dark near-vertical rock ridges and gullies cut the snow, and a small rock step breaks the main face. Its pyramidal profile is likened to a blunt-tipped needle.
Austrian mountaineers Toni Egger and Siegfried Jungmeir completed the first recorded ascent in July 1957 via the northeast face. This early climb marked a significant milestone in the mountaineering history of the Huayhuash range.
The name derives from Quechua: hirish means hummingbird and hanka means snow-covered mountain or glacier, giving "hummingbird bill peak" and also "snowy mountain of the hummingbird". The Spanish form Jirishanca comes from Peruvian usage, and Jirishanca Grande distinguishes it from the nearby Jirishanca Chico in the same range.
Most expeditions start from the town of Chiquian and take place between May and September when weather permits safer climbing. Climbers should prepare for technical rock climbing and work with experienced mountain guides to navigate the route safely.
The wreckage of a Peruvian military Douglas DC-3, flight FAP403 from Pucallpa to Lima, struck an ice wall on the south-east slopes on 16 November 1954 at about 5,500 metres; all 24 people on board died and the wreck was found on 4 December. Parts later recovered were taken to the police NCO school in Yungay, and remains lie near Laguna Solterococha.
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