Piz Morteratsch, Alpine summit in Bernina Range, Switzerland.
Piz Morteratsch is an Alpine summit in the Bernina Range, rising between two major glaciers on its flanks. Its granite slopes display steep faces that create different climbing routes depending on which direction climbers approach from.
The first recorded ascent took place on 11 September 1858 when climbers reached the summit with experienced mountain guides. This early climb established the mountain as part of the regional Alpine climbing tradition.
The mountain stands as a central reference point for Swiss Alpine climbing traditions, with multiple established routes varying in technical difficulty across its faces.
The Boval hut at 2.495 meters serves as a staging point for most routes and offers shelter and provisions for climbers. The route combines rock and ice climbing, so visitors need proper gear and climbing experience to proceed safely.
The standard north ridge route demands skills across multiple climbing disciplines, shifting between bare rock and ice fields from the beginning. This combination of different terrain types makes the ascent unusually technical compared to routes that focus on a single climbing style.
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