Middle Teton, Mountain summit in Grand Teton National Park, United States.
Middle Teton is a mountain summit in Grand Teton National Park, Wyoming, rising to 12,804 feet (3,903 meters) with a sharp pyramidal peak. A black basalt dike runs visibly down its face, making it one of the most recognizable peaks in the range.
Albert R. Ellingwood made the first documented ascent on August 23, 1923, via the south face. That climb set the foundation for the routes that climbers still follow today.
The Middle Teton draws climbers who want to test themselves on routes that range from straightforward scrambles to demanding technical ascents. The dark basalt dike cutting across the mountain's face has become a natural landmark that experienced climbers use to read the terrain.
The main approach follows the Garnet Canyon trail, which is the standard starting point for reaching the upper slopes. Midsummer offers the most stable snow conditions, but weather can change fast at this elevation and hikers should pack layers and rain gear.
A glacier route opened in 1944 is one of the only paths in the Teton range that allows ice and snow climbing early in the season. This makes the peak a rare option for those who want to climb before summer conditions settle in.
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