Schneewinkelkopf, Mountain summit in Heiligenblut, Austria.
Schneewinkelkopf is a 3472 m mountain in the Glockner group on the border of Carinthia and East Tyrol. Its two summits, about 200 m apart, are joined by a northwest–southeast ridge; the points themselves lie under snow. From the northeast it looks like a flat snow dome, while from the northwest it appears as a snow pyramid with firn walls up to 80° steep.
The mountain was first climbed on September 14, 1869, when Munich alpinist Karl Hofmann and Prague merchant Johann Stüdl reached the summit with local guides. This early ascent established it as a known climbing route in the Eastern Alps.
The first ascent on 14 September 1869 was made by Munich alpinist Karl Hofmann and Prague merchant Johann Stüdl, guided by Thomas Groder and Josef Schnell of Kals am Großglockner. Stüdl was a co-founder of the German Alpine Club, and Hofmann rebuilt the Hofmannshütte, the historic shelter of Archduke Johann of Austria, that same year.
The normal route starts at the Oberwalder Hütte (2972 m) northwest of the Franz-Josefs-Höhe and leads first northwest, then west over the crevassed Pasterze to the Oberer Pasterzenboden, then south to the Schneewinkelscharte. From the saddle the southeast ridge reaches the summit in about three hours. The tour demands full glacier equipment and experience; other routes need UIAA grade II climbing.
The two summit points, about 200 metres apart, stay hidden under snow; only the south-west side shows bare rock. The connecting ridge runs north-west to south-east and is the mountain's only ridge. The north-east face feeds the Schneewinkel, part of the Pasterze, the largest glacier in the Eastern Alps.
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