Schrammacher, Mountain summit in the Zillertal Alps, Tyrol, Austria
The Schrammacher is a 3,410 m peak in the Tux ridge of the Zillertal Alps, second highest after the Olperer. Its symmetric pyramid shape and steep, slabby northwest face rise above the head of the Vals valley, while three glaciers—Alpeiner Ferner, Oberschrammacher Ferner and Stampflkees—cling to its flanks.
The first ascent was made on 19 August 1847 by the Salzburg meteorologist and theology professor Peter Karl Thurwieser with the Mayrhofen guides Georg Lechner ("Schneider-Jörgl") and Jakob Huber ("Gainer-Jakl"), over the south ridge from an alp north of the Pfitscherjoch. The 1874 ascent by Maurice de Déchy and Hans Pinggera was long reported as the first; the error was corrected in 1901. Fritz Drasch and Johannes Lechner climbed the northwest face on 25 September 1895, and Hermann Buhl led its first winter ascent in 1951.
The names of the first ascent guides survive in Mayrhofen dialect nicknames: Georg Lechner was called "Schneider-Jörgl" and Jakob Huber "Gainer-Jakl". The 1847 ascent by Peter Karl Thurwieser and these two local guides was published that year, then forgotten; only in 1901 did the Alpine Club journal correct the record after long crediting Moritz von Déchy's 1874 climb.
Climbers should expect technical demands and carry appropriate gear for the route. Weather conditions at this elevation can shift rapidly, making careful preparation essential.
The first ascent of the northwest face, on 25 September 1895 by Fritz Drasch and Johannes Lechner, came decades before climbers took an interest in great north faces in the 1920s. In 1951 Hermann Buhl led the first winter ascent of that wall.
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