Schwarze Wand, Alpine summit in Tyrol, Austria.
Schwarze Wand is a 3,503-metre summit in the Venedigergruppe of the Hohe Tauern, in Tyrol, Austria. Its south side is covered by a gently sloping glacier almost to the top, while the north face, the actual Schwarze Wand, rises over 300 metres and is climbed only by difficult alpine routes. The peak is surrounded by the crevassed Schlatenkees.
The first ascent is attributed, without secure documentation, to Baron Robert von Lendenfeld with guides Urban Steiner and Balthasar Ploner from Prägraten in 1864. The north face, over 300 metres high, was first climbed only from the mid-1920s; the northeast pillar route opened in 1928 at UIAA grade V-.
The mountain was long known as Krystallkopf before the name Schwarze Wand came into use. Its northeast pillar route was opened in 1928 and is graded UIAA V- over roughly 300 metres of ascent, while the ice couloir, first climbed in 1926, reaches inclines of up to 60 degrees.
The mountain is reached only over glaciers, so glacier equipment and experience are required. The Defreggerhaus at 2,962 m serves as the base; the normal route via the southwest ridge and the Schwarz-Wand-Törl saddle takes just over two hours. The north face is reserved for very difficult alpine climbing.
The north face, the actual Schwarze Wand, rises over 300 metres and was first climbed only from the mid-1920s; the northeast pillar route opened in 1928 is graded UIAA V- over about 300 metres of height. The south side, by contrast, lies under a gently inclined glacier almost to the summit and is easy to climb.
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