Zumsteinspitze, Alpine summit in Monte Rosa massif, Switzerland.
Pointe Zumstein (Zumsteinspitze) is a 4,563 m border summit of Switzerland and Italy in the Monte Rosa massif of the Valais Alps. It lies between the Dufourspitze, separated by the Grenzsattel (4,451 m), and the Signalkuppe, separated by the Colle Gnifetti (4,456 m). Routes start from the Capanna Gnifetti (3,647 m), Rifugio Mantova (3,498 m) or Capanna Regina Margherita (4,554 m) on the Italian side, and from the Monte-Rosa-Hütte (2,883 m) above Zermatt on the Swiss side.
The peak was first climbed on August 1, 1820, by Joseph Zumstein and his companions, marking an early chapter in Alpine exploration. This ascent reflected the growing 19th-century push to reach the highest Alpine summits.
The 1820 first ascent party named the peak "Cima de la belle Alliance", but Joseph Zumstein, a forest inspector and member of the Royal Society of Science in Turin, had it named after himself instead. The Italian name Punta Zumstein is used on the Italian side of the border.
Reaching this summit requires serious mountaineering experience and should only be attempted with a professional guide. Access depends heavily on snow and glacier conditions, which vary significantly throughout the year.
The 1820 first ascent party believed they had reached the highest point of Monte Rosa, then saw the higher Dufourspitze from the top. They agreed on the name "Cima de la belle Alliance", but Joseph Zumstein, a forest inspector and member of the Royal Society of Science in Turin, had the peak named after himself. The first winter ascent followed on 30 March 1902, by E. Allegra and guides.
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