Dunantspitze, Alpine summit in Valais, Switzerland
Dunantspitze is a 4,632 m ridge spike of the Dufourspitze in the Monte Rosa massif, in the Pennine Alps of Valais. It is the massif's second highest summit after the Dufourspitze (4,634 m), but its prominence is only about 15 metres. It is crossed on the east ridge during the normal ascent from the Silbersattel or the Grenzsattel, starting from the Monte-Rosa-Hütte (2,883 m).
The first ascent took place on September 1, 1854, when Christopher Smyth, James Grenville Smyth, and Edmund Smyth reached the summit before climbing Pointe Dufour. Originally called Ostspitze, the peak received its current name more than a century later.
The peak was renamed in 2014 to honor Henri Dunant, founder of the International Red Cross, recognizing his humanitarian legacy. This naming choice links the mountain to a significant movement for human rights and aid.
The usual route to the summit crosses the east ridge, reached from the Silbersattel or the Grenzsattel, starting from the Monte-Rosa-Hütte at 2883 m. The final section is a short, little-independent ridge crest, so parties need glacier travel and high-altitude experience; the summit is normally passed on the way to the Dufourspitze.
The height difference to the Dufourspitze is about three metres, not under two. In 1891 W. A. B. Coolidge reassigned the first ascent of 1848 and 1851 to the 4,618 m Grenzgipfel, 50 m east; modern writers such as Pusch, Dumler and Burkhardt assume those parties reached the Dunantspitze after all.
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