Aiguille des Pélerins, Alpine summit in Mont Blanc massif, France
Aiguille des Pélerins is a rock peak in the Mont Blanc massif located between two other prominent needles in the Chamonix group. The route involves technical climbing through mixed terrain combining rock and snow sections.
Robert O'Gorman, Albert Brun and the guides Joseph Ravanel and Edmond Charlet made the first ascent on 9 July 1905. The Grütter ridge was climbed in two stages: M. Grütter and R. Aubert took the upper step on 21 July 1935, and Lionel Terray, Gaston Rébuffat and Édouard Frendo completed the full route on 10 October 1943. Rébuffat later listed it 25th among his 100 finest climbs of the Mont Blanc massif.
The name comes from the hamlet des Pélerins, now a district of Chamonix, not from pilgrims crossing the region. The peak is one of the Aiguilles de Chamonix, and its routes appear in Gaston Rébuffat's list of the 100 finest climbs of the Mont Blanc massif: the Grütter ridge at no. 25 and the Carmichaël route at no. 31.
The peak is best accessed from Chamonix Valley, and climbers should plan around stable weather windows. Summer months offer better conditions with less snow and drier rock faces.
The north face route Beyond Good and Evil was opened in 1992 by Andy Parkin and Mark Twight, marking the start of "modern mixed" climbing. The Grütter ridge, first climbed in 1935, is route no. 25 in Gaston Rébuffat's list of the 100 finest climbs in the Mont Blanc massif.
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