Pizzo del Diavolo di Tenda, Mountain summit in Lombardy, Italy
Pizzo del Diavolo di Tenda is a 2,914 m pyramidal peak on the watershed between the Brembana, Seriana and Ambria valleys, on the Bergamo–Sondrio border. A nearly identical secondary summit, the Diavolino (2,810 m), stands beside it. Its south slope holds the springs of the Brembo, while small glaciers and snowfields linger at the base of the north face.
Alessandro Rossi, a doctor from Valtellina, made the first recorded ascent in September 1870, climbing the Val d'Ambria to the Bocchetta di Podavit and then the present-day normal route. The Bergamasque guide Antonio Baroni climbed the peak repeatedly: with Luigi Brioschi he took the south-west ridge in spring 1876, led the first documented ascent by a woman, Signora Fadini, on 5 April 1879, made the first winter ascent in 1882 and opened the Via Baroni on the south-east edge in 1889. In 1902, aged seventy, he closed his guiding career by repeating that route and finding a harder final variant.
Locals call it Piss del Diàol in Bergamasco, and the name is matched by the Diavolino, a nearly mirror-image secondary summit at 2,810 m. Climbers nicknamed the peak the "Cervino delle Orobie" for its angular, regular pyramid, a comparison to the Matterhorn that appears in local mountaineering writing.
The normal route starts at Carona in Val Brembana, following the trail to Rifugio Fratelli Calvi, then down to Lago Rotondo and on toward Passo di Valsecca. Above the Poris huts it turns north over steep ground and moraine scree to Bocchetta di Podavit (2,624 m), then climbs the north-west crest with passages up to grade II. Allow about 5 hours and 1,800 m of ascent; the route can be shortened via Rifugio Longo and Passo della Selletta. From Valtellina, ascend Val d'Ambria to the same pass from the north.
The peak's near-twin summit, the Diavolino (2,810 m), stands just across from the main top; in 1889 Antonio Baroni linked the two on the descent, and the Diavolino-Diavolo traverse is now one of the most climbed routes. Its pointed profile has earned it the nickname "Cervino delle Orobie".
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