Punta Scais, Alpine summit in Bergamo Alps, Lombardy, Italy
Punta Scais is a 3038 m summit in the Orobie Alps, the second-highest of the Bergamasque Orobie after Pizzo Coca (3050 m). It rises as a sharp cusp from the main ridge, with a short northern shoulder and a longer southern side carrying the Torrione Curò tower and the 2997 m elevation known as Fetta di Polenta, which bounds the Bocchetta di Scais to the north.
Punta Scais was first climbed in 1881 by Luigi Albani, Giuseppe Nievo and guides Ilario Zamboni, Isaia Bonetti and Antonio Baroni, after whom the Baroni hut is named. On 18 January 2012 the Bergamasque climber Mario Merelli died in a fall on the Valtellina side while trying to reach the summit. Two small crosses stand on the top, the newer one dedicated to Merelli.
The peak's name appears on the summit crosses: two small crosses stand on the top, the more recent one dedicated to Mario Merelli, the Bergamasque climber who died on the Valtellina side on 18 January 2012 while trying to reach the summit. The Antonio Baroni refuge below carries the name of the guide who led the first ascent in 1881.
From the Seriana side, routes start at Rifugio Coca or Rifugio Baroni al Brunone; from Valtellina, at Rifugio Mambretti (2003 m). The south ridge from Baroni crosses the Fetta di Polenta and Torre Curò with III-grade climbing and a IV-grade step on the Placca Baroni. The Canale Centrale above Lago di Coca is long and steep but nearly easy in the right season.
The summit holds two small crosses; the more recent one is dedicated to Mario Merelli, the Bergamasque alpinist who died on 18 January 2012 after a fall on the Valtellina side while trying to reach the top. The peak is the second highest of the Bergamasche Orobie Alps at 3038 m, behind Pizzo Coca.
The community of curious travelers
AroundUs brings together thousands of curated places, local tips, and hidden gems, enriched daily by 94,336 contributors worldwide.