Dente di Coca, Mountain peak in Lombardy, Italy

Dente di Coca is a 2,924 m peak on the watershed between Val Seriana and Valtellina, on the ridge linking Pizzo Coca to Passo di Coca. Its normal route starts from Valbondione via Rifugio Coca and the north gully to Lago di Coca, then follows trail 302 to the pass and the east crest, with a steep final climb and a double-rope descent.

The first documented route on the north face was opened by the Longo brothers in the early decades of the 20th century; it has been repeated only three or four times, with a single winter ascent. P. Merelli and a partner made that winter ascent in the early 1980s, after which the route was considered impassable because of continuous rockfall.

The name refers to the tooth-like shape of the summit, which rises between the Val Seriana and the Valtellina on the ridge linking Pizzo Coca to the Passo di Coca. The peak is climbed from Valbondione via the Rifugio Coca and the Coca lake, following trail 302 toward the pass.

Reaching this summit requires proper mountaineering equipment and solid preparation, as the route involves steep and rocky sections. Multiple trails depart from surrounding villages and valleys, with the warmest months offering the most favorable climbing conditions.

The only route on the north face was opened by the Longo brothers in the early decades of the 20th century and has been repeated just three or four times, with a single winter ascent. Its rock is so crumbly and prone to rockfall that the last climb, by P. Merelli and a partner in the early 1980s, is considered the final one; the route is now regarded as impassable.