Picco Gugliermina

Picco Gugliermina stands at 3,893 meters (12,772 feet) in the Mont Blanc massif and features steep rock walls with glacial formations. The summit sits within a complex ridge system of peaks and vertical rock faces that define this mountain range.

The first recorded ascent took place on July 20, 1901, when G.B. and G.F. Gugliermina summited with guide Joseph Brocherel. This climb marked a turning point in the exploration of the Italian Mont Blanc region.

The peak takes its name from the Gugliermina brothers of Valsesia valley, who opened climbing routes across the Italian Mont Blanc region. These names survive as a tribute to local mountaineers who pioneered pathways through the Alps.

Climbers reach the summit via the Brouillard ridge, with the Piero Craveri shelter offering accommodation between this peak and the adjacent Dames Anglaises. The approach demands solid alpine skills and proper mountain gear.

The peak is known for the Gervasutti-Boccalatte route established in 1938, which became a reference point for alpine climbing techniques. This route has drawn generations of mountaineers testing their skills on this demanding line.