Grand Capucin, Granite summit in Chamonix-Mont-Blanc, France.
Grand Capucin is a granite summit in Chamonix-Mont-Blanc reaching about 3,838 meters (12,591 feet) with steep rock walls. The vertical granite faces dominate its appearance and draw climbers seeking technical routes.
The first ascent was made on 24 July 1924 by E. Augusto, Adolphe and Henri Rey and L. Lanier, after the spire's steepness had led early alpinists to think it unreachable. Walter Bonatti and Luciano Ghigo opened the first route on the east face from 20 to 23 July 1951, overcoming a smooth 40-metre wall; Eric Escoffier, Thierry Renault, Jean-Baptiste Tribout and D. Chambre made the first free ascent on 15 July 1983.
Mountain guides from Chamonix have shaped climbing traditions on this peak for generations. Their expertise remains central to how people experience routes on the summit today.
Work with experienced guides who know the complex routes and current conditions on the mountain. Strong physical fitness and previous rock climbing experience are essential for a safe ascent.
The east face, nearly 400 metres high, was first climbed by Walter Bonatti and Luciano Ghigo from 20 to 23 July 1951, overcoming a smooth 40-metre wall rated 6c+. In 2008 Alexander Huber free-soloed the Voie des Suisses, climbing it both up and down without artificial aids.
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