Taulliraju, Mountain summit in Cordillera Blanca, Ancash Department, Peru.
Taulliraju is a 5,830-meter peak in the Cordillera Blanca located between Huaylas and Pomabamba provinces. The mountain features exceptionally steep slopes ranging from 60 to 85 degrees that create a technically demanding terrain.
French climber Lionel Terray reached the summit in 1956, making the first documented ascent and opening the peak to international mountaineering. This achievement established the mountain as a notable climbing destination in the Andes.
The name comes from Quechua words tawlli, a local blue legume flower, and rahu meaning snow or ice-covered peak. This naming reflects how local communities link the region's plants with its distinctive frozen landscape.
Climbers must be experienced with advanced ice climbing techniques and bring specialized gear like ice axes and crampons for the attempt. Two main routes exist: the north face and the south-southeast ridge, each demanding significant technical skill and preparation.
Twenty years passed between the first ascent in 1956 and the second recorded climb, revealing how rarely this peak attracts successful mountaineers. This gap underscores the extreme technical difficulty that deters most climbers from returning.
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