Pucajirca, Mountain summit in Cordillera Blanca, Peru
Pucajirca is a mountain mass in the Cordillera Blanca with three prominent peaks all exceeding 6000 meters, with the northern summit at 6046 meters as the highest point. The massif displays characteristic snowfields and steep rock formations across the Ancash region.
Pucajirca Norte was first climbed on 14 July 1955 by Nick Clinch and Andrew Kauffman II of the United States; Harvey McMannis and David Sowles reached it two days later. Erwin Schneider had already summited Pucajirca Oeste in the 1930s. The three summits were climbed separately, and the massif's official altitude remains unconfirmed by current DEM data.
The name derives from Quechua: puka, red, and Ancash Quechua hirka, mountain, giving "red mountain". The massif lies in Ancash Region, split between Pomabamba Province's Pomabamba District (Pucajirca Norte) and Huaylas Province's Yuracmarca District (Pucajirca Central), north of Rinrijirca.
Pucajirca lies within Huascarán National Park, so entry follows the park's own regulations rather than a separate permit. The three summits sit on the border of Pomabamba District (Ancash Region) and Yuracmarca District (Huaylas Province), north of Rinrijirca. Approach routes should be scouted in advance, and glacier travel calls for snow goggles, insulated clothing and mountaineering boots.
The three summits are separate and independent: Norte at 6,046 m, Central at 6,014 m and Oeste at 6,039 m. Erwin Schneider reached Oeste in the 1930s, two decades before the 1955 first ascent of Norte by Nick Clinch and Andrew Kauffman II. DEM data is considered insufficient to confirm the official altitude.
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