The Witches' Market, Traditional medicine marketplace in Cerro Cumbre, La Paz, Bolivia
The Witches' Market is a street market on Calle Linares in the El Rosario neighbourhood of La Paz, near the Basílica de San Francisco, also reaching Jiménez, Santa Cruz and Illampu streets. Stalls run by Aymara women known as chifreras display potions, dried frogs, retama, armadillos and dried llama fetuses called sullus.
The market takes its name from the foreign visitors who made it recognizable, and in 2019 it was declared Intangible Cultural Heritage of La Paz. Its stalls on Calle Linares, in the El Rosario neighborhood, are run by yatiri, and many rituals have been adapted to an urban setting through colonialism in Bolivia. Around 60% of sales, according to locals, occur in October during Pachamama rituals.
Healers wearing distinctive black hats work among the stalls, selling herbs and ritual items that play a role in local spiritual ceremonies and family traditions. The market reflects how traditional healing knowledge remains woven into daily life for many residents.
The market runs along Calle Linares in the El Rosario neighbourhood, near the Basílica de San Francisco, and continues onto Jiménez, Santa Cruz and Illampu streets. October, when Pachamama offerings are made, is the busiest month, with locals saying about 60% of sales fall then; February during Carnival is also busy.
The market was named for foreigners' benefit, and in 2019 La Paz declared it Intangible Cultural Heritage. The yatiri are recognizable by black hats and coca pouches holding amulets and powders promising luck, beauty and fertility. Around 60% of sales, locals say, fall in October, when Pachamama offerings are made.
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