Piz Buin Pitschen, Alpine summit in Silvretta range, Switzerland and Austria
Piz Buin Pitschen is a 3,255 m peak on the main ridge of the Silvretta, on the border between Vorarlberg and Graubünden. It is separated from the higher Großer Piz Buin by the Buinlücke, a 3,056 m pass. The Ochsentaler Glacier lies on its north side, the La Cudera Glacier to the southwest, and the Fourcla dal Cunfin separates it from the 3,210 m Signalhorn.
The first documented ascent took place on August 24, 1868, when O.W. Stein and mountain guide Christian Jann reached the summit and established the initial climbing route. This early exploration integrated the peak into Alpine mountaineering history during the 19th century.
The name Piz Buin comes from Romansh and means "Ochsenspitze" (ox peak) in German. Romansh adds Grond for the higher Piz Buin Grond and Pitschen for the lower Piz Buin Pitschen; when locals say only "Piz Buin", they usually mean the larger summit.
The easiest route starts from the Wiesbadener Hut (2,443 m) in Vorarlberg, crossing the Buinlücke (3,056 m) and following the west ridge to the summit. From the Swiss side, the Chamonna Tuoi (2,250 m) is reached via the La Cudera glacier and the Fourcla dal Cunfin or the Vermunt Pass. Every ascent crosses a glacier and involves UIAA grade II climbing. Since autumn 2022, Graubünden's natural hazards office and the SLF Davos warn of a large rockfall on the mountain that directly affects the Buinlücke area; over 20,000 cubic metres of rock came down in 2022, and up to about 100,000 cubic metres are expected by 2028, so the area should be avoided in bad weather and the ski descent from the Buinlücke toward the Tuoi hut is no longer advisable.
The northern face of the summit holds the Ochsenthaler Glacier, which forms the source of the River Ill that flows toward the Rhine basin. This water source connects the mountain to one of Europe's most important river systems.
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